Cherry Hand Pies

It’s a small thing, but when I was about eight years old, I remember my parents letting me occasionally snag a cherry hand pie from the gas station when we filled up. It was a special treat, for sure, but one that I eventually grew out of because I found the packaged cherry hand pies to be too sweet.

Good news, though! I’m an adult now and I can make my own cherry pies—ones that have a better balance of sweet and tart flavors.

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All Hail Fudgie the Whale, The Best Ice Cream Cake There Is

First loves—and first infatuations—never truly lose their power. Even if it’s been two decades since you last shared space with the object of your affection, memory makes them hyper-real, and present, and perfect. So it is with certain food too, like Carvel’s Fudgie the Whale ice cream cake, the once and eternal holy grail of birthday cakes for me.

For the uninitiated, Fudgie is a whale-shaped frozen cake composed of several layers. There’s a base of vanilla ice cream, topped with a generous band of chocolate cookie crumbs (known as “chocolate crunchies” in official Carvel parlance), which in turn is topped with chocolate ice cream, which is covered in a glossy fudge icing with frozen whipped cream frosting piped thickly around the border. The outside edges are coated in more crunchies (the website says vanilla ones, but there’s photographic evidence of chocolate crunchies outside too), and there is a face drawn on with more white frosting: an eyebrow, an eye, and a mouth, although their particular form and resulting expression vary widely. You might get a happy or abashed Fudgie, or one who looks more…grimly determined—but the taste will not waver (unless you prefer different ice cream flavors, which you can get if you please). Sometimes a message is iced onto Fudgie’s body as well, but that’s optional.

I remember all this, the look, the feel, the experience—the flavor, not quite so much (basic chocolate and vanilla, you know?), but the texture of the dense, soft, yet slightly crunchy cookie crumbs against the melting ice cream, and the airy-yet-firm resistance of the frozen mousse-like cream against everything else, plus the shiny, sticky fudge on top…it remains vivid in my mind, even though I haven’t tasted it since 1990-something.

A slice of Fudgie reveals his many layers, Jason Lam/flickr

Yet I still think of Fudgie often (disproportionately so, I’m sure), and was interested to finally learn more about how he came into being. When I was little, he didn’t have a history; he was sort of like the Easter bunny in that respect—he just was, and always had been, and ever would be, and his primary purpose in the universe was to bestow joy, primarily in the form of chocolate. I never stopped believing in Fudgie, yet he became as distant from me as magical rabbits once I moved across the country. Sadly, whereas Carvel shops are fairly densely scattered around the East Coast, out west, there is a marked dearth. The closest one to me now is in California, roughly 1,000 miles away—totally within road trip territory, yet too far to keep my former birthday tradition alive. And so I took to the Internet to get my Fudgie fix the only way I can from such a distance. Social media stalking, really. Fudgie is a public figure, but none of his accounts are private, so it didn’t feel too creepy…until I wrote those sentences, anyway.

Fudgie the Whale mascot, Carvel

Serendipity seems to be a recurring theme with Fudgie, and with Carvel in general. For instance: it turns out a stroke of luck—bad luck, but luck all the same, in the form of a flat tire—may be to thank for the existence of Carvel ice cream shops in the first place. Back in 1929, Tom Carvel (formerly known as Athanasios Thomas Karvelas) used a $15 loan from the future Mrs. Carvel (Agnes Stewart) to purchase an ice cream truck. While driving it around Hartsdale, New York on Memorial Day weekend in 1934, the aforementioned flat forced him to pull into the parking lot of a pottery shop. Although the ice cream began to melt, he hustled to sell it and found that holiday crowds loved the softer texture, which gave him the idea to invent the world’s first soft-serve machine. (Dairy Queen claims that their founder actually invented soft-serve around the same time, but we’re here for ice cream cake, so never mind all that for now.)

The original Carvel shop, Carvel

What’s most important is that, in 1936, Carvel purchased the pottery shop and moved in for good, which could have been the end of it, but—luckily for me and countless others—he kept on innovating and expanding.

He began selling his soft-serve machines to other ice cream outfits, but when those businesses failed to thrive, he took a more active role in their operation and established the franchise model that made Carvel an ice cream empire (and this is also why he’s been dubbed “the father of franchising”).

By the 1970s, Carvel was going strong, but they weren’t just going to rest on their frozen laurels. And so began the proliferation of their novelty ice cream cakes. Cookie Puss came first, although I must admit, I had no direct exposure to that iconic and slightly alarming visage in my youth. (Intentionally or not, Cookie Puss bears some resemblance to Tom Carvel himself, but the man’s eyes were not that wildly hypnotic.)

Cookie Puss sneaking into the picture, Carvel/Facebook

Cookie Puss debuted in 1972, and Fudgie the Whale followed in 1977. According to one of the inventors of the whale-shaped cake, it was originally covered with fudge to keep the tail from breaking off—another happy fluke! Fudgie was specifically created for Father’s Day, and for the occasion, he is still often emblazoned with the slogan: “For a Whale of a Dad.” I’m immensely grateful that (a) he was allowed to become a year-round staple, and (b) there was never a similarly worded message on my birthday cakes.

I was okay not knowing that an awkward hammerhead shark-esque version of the current Fudgie mascot once existed—yet I also can’t stop looking back at it; even in his ungainly adolescent years, Fudgie was captivating.

Early Fudgie the Whale mascot, Carvel

Fudgie is also versatile. At Christmastime, he’s flipped on his head and cloaked in red and white frosting to stand in for Santa Claus (clock that hat), and if you prefer a female Fudgie, you can get one with pink piping, icing eyelashes, and a little bow. Even so, he’s most enchanting in his original form—I know this to be true on a cellular level, but the fact that more than 50,000 Fudgie the Whale ice cream cakes are sold every year helps support the assertion.

I’m a little sad I don’t have childhood memories of the infamous early Carvel TV commercials (parodied on “SNL” a few years before I was even born), but I am overjoyed that they are enshrined in the virtual pop culture museum that is the Internet today.

Beyond the delightful Fudgie reference in a classic season 8 episode of “The Simpsons,” I was also previously unaware of Fudgie’s wider cultural cachet, but it makes total sense; there’s something so inherently endearing about him. No wonder he’s been mentioned in so many other shows (“Archer,” “The Office,” and “Billions,” among others), and in Patton Oswalt sets, and in a truly bizarre WWE bit that’s rather grotesque yet kind of fascinating. Even William Shatner is a Fudgie fan. It’s heartening, somehow, to know that Fudgie is so widely loved, but I cherish him most on a personal level.

A Fudgie surrogate as seen in “The Simpsons”, Fox

Fudgie himself celebrated a big birthday last year: on June 1, 2017, he turned 40 (not that you’d know it by looking at him). Somehow, I was in the dark about this until now, so imagine my deep dismay to learn that there were limited-edition commemorative plush Fudgie the Whale toys available to anyone who donated to the Save the Whales foundation. Alas, they’re all gone now, residing cheerfully in other people’s homes.

Commemorative plush Fudgie the Whale toy, Carvel/CrowdRise

Still, it’s good to find that Fudgie’s not only whimsical, charming, and delicious, but supports noble causes too. My love for him has only grown, and my heartache increased too, for he remains so elusive. I could try making a doppelganger at home (allegedly, you can make comparable crunchies by mixing Oreo crumbs with Magic Shell chocolate coating), but I know it wouldn’t be as good, and I definitely wouldn’t get the shape right, which is crucial.

I do have faith (or at least desperate hope masquerading as faith) that one day we will meet again, and I know I’ll be as giddy as I ever was to see that smiling face beneath the cellophane window of his Carvel box—but until then, I enjoy knowing that Fudgie remains out there in the world, making lots of other people just as happy.

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The Best Food Secrets at Summer’s Most Popular Music Festivals

Music festivals have come a long way since the first—1967’s Fantasy Fair and Magic Mountain— where the only thing anyone ate was LSD dropped on the crowds by Grateful Dead’s “chemist,” Owsley Stanley, as he flew over Golden Gate Park.

Nowadays, while talent bookers clamor to secure the summer’s top bands and DJs, a similar mad dash is happening to devise equally impressive food and drink lineups for hot and hungry festival-goers from coast to coast.

From rare Bourbon in Louisville, to cooking demos in New Orleans and tacos! tacos! tacos! in Austin, these massive festivals deliver culinary snapshots of their respective regions at gourmet levels not seen before. Their sophistication of work might go unnoticed by the average fan but I spoke to the hard-working food and drink coordinators at some of the nation’s best to find out what to expect, what to look for, and what not to miss.

Soft Shell Crab Po-Boy at Jazz Fest, Joshua Brasted

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ AND HERITAGE FESTIVAL,  New Orleans

Unsurprisingly, the best festival food happens in and around the country’s best food cities and both New Orleans and its prized “Jazz Fest” are in a league of their own. Each year, spanning two weekends in late April and early May, folks descend on the Fair Grounds Race Course (just outside the French Quarter) to celebrate the birthplace of jazz and whole lot of incredible food.

From muffuletta sandwiches and alligator gumbo to cochon (pork) sandwiches and TONS of seafood, Jazz Fest packs as big a punch as any with an incredibly defined food personality that reflects the city itself. Director Michelle Nugent secures over 60 vendors each year, all with distinct and local culinary traditions including Cajun, Creole, soul food, street food, “Nouvelle ” Louisiana, Vietnamese, Cuban, African, Native American, Mediterranean, and classical French.

As the scent of hot fry bread and oyster po’ boys waft through the thick Louisiana air alongside tunes from headliners like Bruce Springsteen and Buddy Guy, you realize this is the mother of all festival food experiences and worth every calorie.

New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, Craig Calefate

Must Eats:

Crawfish Beignets from Patton’s Caterers

Fried Chicken and Jambalaya from Catering Unlimited

Cochon de Lait Po-Boy from Love at First Bite

Alligator Gumbo from Fireman Mike’s Kitchen

Beignets from Cafe du Monde

Don’t Miss:

Take a break from your Zydeco two-stop and catch full-on cooking demonstrations at the indoor Food Heritage Stage where mic’d up master chefs like Red Fish Grills’ Austin Kirzner give step-by-step instructions on how to make menu staples like Redfish Etouffee (with enough for everyone to sample, of course).

Insider Tip:

Download the Jazz Fest app, a helpful resource for locating your favorites in a sea of offerings and find a complete schedule for cooking demos at the Food Heritage Stage. As an added bonus, the music ends before sunset, so make your way to one of the city’s many celebrated restaurants like Cochon Butcher or Arnaud’s French 75 for dinner, but make reservations early!

Austin Kirzner at the Food Heritage Stage, Craig Calefate

GOVERNORS BALL, New York City

There is likely no music festival on earth with more pressure to deliver a perfect 10 than New York’s 8-year-old Governor’s Ball, which plops down on Randalls Island for three days in early June bringing rock, pop, and hip-hop superstars like Jack White and Björk.

Luckily for organizer Tom Russell, a lot of the city’s best are excited to be part of the festival. Due to limited space, quite a few businesses are actually turned away. With Mexican, Greek, Korean, Cuban, Chinese & Hong Kong, Belgian, Italian, and Southern options, “Gov Ball” sports a food landscape as diverse as the city that surrounds it.

David Watsky

Must Eats:

Pizza from Michelin-rated Roberta’s Pizza

Lobster Roll from Luke’s Lobster

Ramen Burger from Ramen Burger

Fried Cookie Dough Balls, collaboration by Big Mozz and DŌ!

Don’t Miss:

Craft cocktails and respite in one of the 21+ areas like “Best Kept Secret Bar,” a shady oasis located towards the middle of the festival grounds.

Insider Tip:

Russell says “Ramen Burger and DŌ! have have the longest lines every year, so think about getting there early or during a lull in your day with some time to spare.”

Rarities Bar inside Forecastle’s Bourbon Lodge, Forecastle Festival

FORECASTLE FESTIVAL, Louisville, Ky.

Forecastle has been going strong since 2002. The homegrown music festival celebrating “music, arts, and activism” has evolved from a small gathering of friends and artists to one of the premiere events on the summer music calendar. It draws tens of thousands every July to Louisville’s 85-acre Waterfront Park, blending cutting-edge local, regional, and national talent across multiple genres.

Jeff Cuellar, Forcastle’s VP of strategic partnerships, describes the scene as a “variety of cuisines from all over the world, with a southern flare and heavy ‘Bourbonism.’” Look out for local favorites like Firebird BBQ, Hi-Five Doughnuts, Black Rock Grille, La Chandeleur, Heine Brothers Coffee, and Steel City Pops. The “Kentucky Landing” area, a festival favorite, pays homage to the Commonwealth, with a variety of craft breweries and local food trucks.

Craig Calefate

Must Eat/Drink:

Whole Hog at Firepit BBQ

Sierra Nevada’s Chantey Session IPA (made exclusively for Forecastle)

Tacos from Holy Molé

Kentucky Sunrise Slushies (adults only)

Don’t Miss:

The Bourbon! Forecastle’s Bourbon Lodge is where it’s at. Fans of the brown stuff can purchase a membership online or on-site allowing access to an immersive (and air-conditioned) Bourbon Lodge experience with selection from Kentucky’s best distilleries, served neat or in cocktails. Flight Bar & Rarities (located inside the lodge) features rare and hard-to-find booze like Old Forester Birthday Bourbon, Four Roses special editions, and more—many only available at Forecastle and in limited quantities.

Insider Tip:

Bourbon Lodge members receive updates via the mobile app about Bourbon Rarities available in the Lodge. “If you are looking to go further down the Bourbon rabbit hole,” says Cueller, “Gonzo Bar, inspired by writer, Bourbon freak, and general mad man, Hunter S. Thompson, offers additional selections and exclusive ‘Bourbon experiences.’”

Special Mention:

The Yacht Club—a new nautical experience, featuring access to Louisville’s Mary M. Miller Steamboat with exclusive libations, culinary treats, music, and the best place to watch the sunset over the Ohio River.

David Watsky

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS, Austin

In many ways, Austin City Limits, or “ACL”, is the grand finale of festival season. And like any good finale, it pops over two full weekends in October, boasting legendary headliners like Paul McCartney and Childish Gambino.

Kevin Noonan, ACL’s manager of vendor operations, tells me his number one priority is elevating the local establishments inside the grounds of Austin’s Zilker Park. Noonan and his team strive for representation from “restaurants that locals would recommend to out-of-towners.” Expect lots of barbecue, queso dip, and tacos…lots and lots of tacos.

Must Eats/Drinks:

Mighty Cone from Mighty Cone

Elk and Foie Tacos from Lonesome Dove

Green Chile Pork Tacos from Torchy’s Tacos

Brisket Sandwich from Mickelthwait Craft Meats

Local beers and Bourbons

Don’t Miss:

Healthy things?! Don’t count ‘em out. With Austin’s rampant and ever-growing infestation of health nuts, ACL proudly delivers a smattering of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options that don’t sacrifice on taste.

Insider Tip:

Noonan says, “If you’re looking to avoid the dinner rush, know that the most popular time to visit the food court is right before the headliners go on. Divide, conquer, and then share with your friends to try the most food in the least amount of time!”

The Wine Lands at Outside Lands Festival, Cal Binghamton

OUTSIDE LANDS MUSIC AND ARTS FESTIVAL, San Francisco

Like New York, San Francisco has a seriously badass reputation to uphold when it comes to anything food-related. Now in it’s 11th year, Outside Lands Music and Arts Festival reigns sonic domination over SF’s historic Golden Gate Park for one weekend in August, alongside a brag-worthy 83-vendor lineup of culinary heavyweights curated by celebrated SF restaurateur Anna Weinberg (Big Nights Restaurant Group).

In her second year with the festival, Weinberg laughs that it’s always “freezing at night,” so hot and spicy foods are popular and her team delivers an epic selection. The expansive offerings are broken into categories including “Taste of the Bay” featuring both longtime institutions and newcomers like Michelin-rated Hawker Fare (Lao/Thai), Trestle (New American), The Monk’s Kettle (Belgian), and Little Chihuahua (Mexican).

Similar to Jazz Festival, Outside Lands also houses a culinary stage called “Gastro Magic,” where star chefs from the area dazzle onlookers on hiatus from the main stage where crowds sway and shimmy to icons like Janet Jackson and Florence and the Machine.

Must Eats:

Baked Goods from (the legendary) Tartine

Malaysian Lamb Curry Sandwiches from Azalina’s

Spicy Fried Chicken Biscuit from The Bird

Hawaiian Ahi Poke from Pacific Catch

Porcini Doughnuts from Raclette

Dont Miss:

Tented areas dubbed “Wine Lands” and “Beer Lands” feature 41 Northern California wineries and 30 West Coast breweries respectively. That’s a whole lot of good drink. Not to be outdone, Cypress Grove curates “Cheese Lands” where you can try their famous Humboldt Fog, among others.

Insider Tip:

“Carve out some time to hang in the Wine Lands Courtyard. It is a total blast and marching bands come through unexpectedly, bringing raucous and unexpected entertainment.”

Outside Lands Music Festival, Tom Tomkinson

FIREFLY MUSIC FESTIVAL, Dover, Del.

Dover might seem like an unsuspecting city in the second smallest U.S. state but it’s home to one of the coolest new additions to the festival circuit. In only its seventh year, Firefly has already bagged major acts like The Killers and Red Hot Chili Peppers to grace its stage in mid-June and the food, much like the festival itself, is eclectic yet manageable.

Favorites here include Hebros Kitchen, Tica’s Tacos, Humpty’s Dumplings, Grotto Pizza, and Roaming Raven (cheesesteaks) underscore a diverse local lineup with something for everyone. Delaware brewery Dogfish Head has the beer market cornered. Lucky for us, they brew some of the best on the coast and always offer a signature Firefly Ale for the festival only.

Must Eats/Drinks:

Smoothies from Hippie Dips

Wok-fried Noodles from Island Noodles

Buffalo Chicken Dumplings from Humpty Dumplings

Firefly Ale from Dogfish Head

Don’t Miss:

The Woodlands Coffee House. The Coffee House replicates a, well, coffee house and features intimate performances from fifteen acts and a large coffee shop including coffee cocktails (yay!). A great spot to relax and recaffeinate between higher-energy sets in an intimate setting. You might even hear “Smelly Cat.”

Insider Tip:

Island Noodles is easily one of the most popular vendors and usually sells out fairly quickly. Get in line early and often!

Cal Binghamton

 

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