Wednesday, February 21, 2018

Japanese Whisky Is Having a Moment in New York

In New York City, it’s not hard to find burgers and pizzas nearing the $40 mark. There’s at least one steak that will set you back nearly $1,000, and a caviar-dressed breakfast omelet commanding double that cost. The world of spirits is its own animal though, with pricey pours and costly cocktails about as common as candy. For the longest time bartenders’ most brag-worthy—and typically cost-prohibitive—bottles hailed straight from Kentucky: pretty much anything under the cultishly adored Pappy family. But in the last couple of years, a new slate of coveted, highly-allocated, and indeed spendy whiskies have taken over the top shelf, and they’re Japanese by origin.

“Japanese whisky was virtually unknown outside of Japan until very recently,” begins Japanese bartending expert Frank Cisneros. First responsible for building newbie Lower East Side sushi and kaiseki den Uchu’s unparalleled collection of over 80 unique Japanese whiskies, he’s presently ensconced at Greenwich Village’s Bar Moga, curating that bottle list with a current count of 41 options.

Suntory Holdings—an Osaka-based beverage conglomerate responsible for selling everything from soda and juice to some of the world’s most desired—is typically credited with leading the Japanese whisky movement, some of its most prized brands being the Yamazaki Distillery, also in Osaka, Hakushu Distillery in Yamanashi Prefecture, and Hibiki, made from a blend of whiskies distilled and aged at all three of Suntory’s facilities: Yamazaki, Hakushu, and Chita.

“Suntory has a wide variety of incredible single malt and blended whiskies, many of which are just available in Japan,” says Suntory brand ambassador Gardner Dunn. “So, it’s not unusual to see a Japanese bar with a large selection.” However, Dunn adds that when considering U.S. bars that count comprehensive collections, operators must go “to the ends of the earth to amass and seek out[…]exceptional Japanese whiskies.”

Revered whisky critic Jim Murray has played a pivotal role in partly why Japanese whisky is so rare today. In 2015, he named the 2013 vintage of Yamazaki’s Sherry Cask-aged whisky the world’s best in his “Whisky Bible” guide, with the spirit beating out over 1000 others from across the globe. “It was the first Japanese whisky to achieve that success, and it really blew open the doors to worldwide Japanese whisky consumption,” explains Cisneros. “Due to the unprecedented demand over the past four years, it’s become very difficult to acquire Japanese whiskies,” he adds, specifically citing the challenging nature of sourcing single malts or whiskies with an age statement. Bottles like Yamazaki 25 fetch thousands of dollars at retail, while the even more elusive Yamazaki 50 was recently purchased for nearly $300,000, making it the most expensive Japanese whisky ever sold at auction.

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“[I]t would be silly to say that the limited quantities of Japanese whisky didn’t have a huge part in sparking consumers’ interest,” admits Thomas Waugh, beverage director for all Major Food Group restaurants. But over the last half decade or so, the beverage community has embraced Japanese whisky, learning more about the spirit along the way, and ultimately understanding that there’s good reason these distillates are so in demand. And it has to do with the Japanese’s ability to create “magnificent whiskies,” with blended expressions “that [can] have just as much, or more, complexity and depth than fine single malts,” he finishes.

Waugh shares Cisneros’ affinity for Japan and spirits, and the two briefly tended bar together at Brooklyn’s hidden Japanese gem of a restaurant and bar, Karasu. At his most recent endeavor, organizing cocktails for midtown’s The Pool and The Pool Lounge, Waugh has amassed a collection of 27 Japanese whiskies. He explains, “[W]ith how limited and competitive this ordeal is these days, I just try to acquire everything I can through our available distributors.”

Typically, in the U.S., people drink pricey whiskies straight because there’s a perception that it is a “sacrilege to dilute [them],” states Cisneros, “but it’s really not.” On the other hand, in Japan, spirits like whisky are consumed with some level of dilution. “The concept of shots or spirits neat is virtually non-existent there,” continues Cisneros, who encourages his guests to sip whisky like the Japanese do, either as a highball, over a large rock, or with a splash of water. And those who visit Cisneros over at Bar Moga will nab ice cubes made from soft mineral water he brings over from Kagoshima, on the island of Kyushu.

Sushi Seki’s flagship Times Square outlet on 46th Street is home to about 27 Japanese whiskies, from Toki—Suntory’s wallet-friendly, entry-level expression ($7.50 per ounce—to Yamazaki’s generally scarce Yamazaki 18 ($32.50 per ounce). And while the sushi and kaiseki haunt is celebrated for its unique sake collection, general manager Yasu Suzuki has begun to notice a change in customers’ imbibing habits, slightly leaning away from wine and beer. “We have been seeing an increasing trend with American consumers ordering more Japanese whisky to enjoy and sip throughout their entire meal,” he notes, specifically calling out Yamazaki 12 as an especially popular pour.

But that’s not to say mixed drinks are out of the question. Over at The Pool Lounge, Waugh builds his Mango cocktail with Nikka’s Coffey Grain whisky, in addition to lime, vanilla, and Aperol. Says Waugh, “I found that the tropical, almost coconut-y notes of the whisky played really well with other tropical ingredients.” Meanwhile, over at lauded Union Square sushi engagement Shuko, the eatery offers several cocktails built with Japanese whisky, including The Hokkaido Old Fashioned, a mix of Nikka Coffey Grain, bitters, demerara sugar, and orange.

For those keen to try the best of the best in Japanese whisky, visit any one of the below haunts.

American Whiskey

Number of Bottles: 10

Rare Expressions: Yamazaki Sherry Cask, Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year

Angel’s Share

Number of Bottles: 30

Rare Expressions: Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year, Mars Maltage 3 Plus 25, Ichiro’s Malt Chichibu Port Pipe, Ichiro’s Malt Chichibu The Floor Malted

Ani Ramen House

Number of Bottles: 41

Rare Expressions: Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year, Ichiro’s Malt Chichibu Single Cask #165

Bar Moga

Number of Bottles: 41

Rare Expressions: Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year; Ichiro’s Malt Single Cask bottlings

Fine & Rare

Number of Bottles: 17

Rare Expressions: Hibiki 21, Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year, Yamazaki 18

Library of Distilled Spirits

Number of Bottles: 17

Rare Expressions: Karuizawa 1993 Jazz Club 12 Year Old

Made Hotel’s lobby bar

Number of Bottles: 12

Mifune

Number of Bottles: 15

Rare Expressions: Ichiro’s Malt Chichibu The Floor Malted

O Ya

Number of Bottles: 12

Rare Expressions: Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year

The Flatiron Room

Number of Bottles: 23

Rare Expressions: Yamazaki 25, Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year, Yamazaki 18, HIbiki 21

The Pool Lounge

Rare Expressions: 27

Number of Bottles: Karuizawa 1978 25 Year Old

Sakagura

Number of Bottles: 9

Rare Expressions: Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year, Mars Maltage 3 Plus 25

Sen Sakana

Number of Bottles: 40

Rare Expressions: Mars Komagatake 30 Year Old, Ichiro’s Malt Chichibu The Floor Malted, Yamazaki 18, Hakushu 18

Shuko

Number of Bottles: 50

Rare Expressions:  Nikka Yoichi 15 Year Old, Ichiro’s Malt Chichibu Single Cask, Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year, Mars Whisky Komagatake 30 Year

Sushi Seki Times Square

Number of Bottles: 27

Rare Expressions: Yamazaki 18

Uchu

Number of Bottles: 84

Rare Expressions: Yamazaki 25, Mars Komagatake 30 Year Old

Zuma

Number of Bottles: 15

Rare Expressions: Ichiro’s Malt Chichibu Port Pipe



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Dark, Milk, White, and Green: This Boston-Based Chocolate Factory Puts the Environment First

Mmm, chocolate! If that quote doesnt bring to mind a scene with two sisters savoring the scent of decadent chocolate, then chances are you dont have a toddler or have yet to experience the joy of watching Disneys “Frozen.” When I finally have time to myself, nothing is better than curling up with a good book and a steep cup of hot chocolate on a wintry afternoon, which Ive learned can include rain, sleet, snow, bomb cyclones, or even 50 degree weather! As a California transplant with a toddler in tow, I am doing my best to adjust and get to know the Boston area. Im here as a student working towards my graduate degree in international relations and a certificate in sustainability at Harvard Universitys Extension School. Naturally, I was drawn to join a club to meet like-minded peers and the Harvard Extension Student Environmental Club welcomed me with open arms. The HESEC  is an inclusive group where people come together to discuss and bring light to environmental issues inside and outside of Harvard and its surrounding communities. Back to chocolate! Our club tours local venues to figure out what measures they take in order to maximize their efficiency, minimize their global footprint, and embrace our global community. These engaging tours are an effort to educate and inform our members of the sustainable measures that local companies are implementing. I was inclined to take one of our planned tours for HESEC early, as I had a rare block of free time. So, I ended up at Taza Chocolate Factory in Somerville, Mass. 

Taza Chocolate

This companys supply chain is absolutely transparent, recognizing the value in a Direct Trade approach, which means that they a) know exactly which farm your cacao beans are grown and harvested and b) ensure that their supply chain is sustainable. One factor to consider when we purchase any product is the value; not just the purchase appeal or superior quality, but the ability to stand behind a product because you believe in how it was manufactured and want to support real farmers and their livelihood. It warms my heart knowing that Taza not only manufactures chocolate in such an authentic way, but that it truly takes care of the people within its supply chain, unlike other mass-produced chocolate vendors. The difference is clear, as Taza claims,  unrefined, stone ground chocolate from bean to bar. Our unique chocolate-making techniques are all about minimal processing, to let the bold flavors of our organic, Direct Trade Certified cacao shout loud and proud. I was eager to learn more and walked in ready to go with the full intention of tasting a variety of morsels while learning about the types of beans, means of production, and what makes this chocolate factory stand out from the rest.

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Okay, so I did not walk into the fantastical land of “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory” and a bunch of super sweet candies hidden in a rainbow explosion. Instead, I entered the doors of rustic Taza Chocolate Factory, enveloped by warmth while the bitter dark chocolate aroma delighted my cold nose and uplifted my mood immediately—a stark departure from the frigid temp outside. I was greeted by a friendly young lady who checked me in and encouraged me to hang my coat (and the other 50 items required in the Boston Winter Wonderland Bundle-Up package). Soon after, we were introduced to our tour guide who told us the story of the companys inception (I wont ruin the surprise but it has something to do with hot chocolate). He provided tidbits of chocolate while he explained their country of origin and their varying processes of manufacture. He also explained the history and function of the factory, the tools and machines that they utilize, and what makes them stand apart from other chocolate companies. We were there on a day when they were producing the chocolate right in front of us and my favorite fact is that the cacao nibs (those little pieces from the cacao beans that have been roasted and taken out of the husks) are actually a superfood! Filled to the brim with minerals such as magnesium and antioxidants, cacao has a positive effect on moods and contains Phenylethylamine (which helps students like myself to stay alert and focused). It can even act as an appetite suppressant!

Health benefits aside, the most valuable takeaway is their supply-chain model and the company’s treatment of the individuals who choose to work in the chocolate industry. To know that Taza created the chocolate industrys first third-party certified Direct Trade cacao sourcing program, to ensure quality and transparency for all underlines their focus on sustainable business practices and sets a modern standard that guarantees quality while ensuring profitability, all while being sustainable. In fact, they even provide a Transparency Report each year  to document every farm in every country where their beans are treated and how the local farmers all benefit from this means of production. In 2018, it is more important than ever to get to know what we are buying, putting into our bodies, and where our money is going. Taza actually pays more than the market price, which points to the fact that businesses can be more sustainable, maximize deliciousness, and all while ensuring we as consumers are giving back to those who work so hard to provide for us.

If you live in Boston, arent able to make it to Somerville in the near future, but would still like to try their hot chocolate, they have a hot chocolate bar in the Boston Public Market,. If you are anywhere in the United States, you will probably be able to find their products at a Whole Foods, or any natural food store near you.  Lastly, you can check out their website for recipes and information about the types of chocolates they offer, how to go on a tour by yourself (my style), and ways to enjoy the guilt-free (for the most part) deliciousness of their chocolates. Sounds like a sweet deal.



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Black Rice Bowls with Tofu and Veggies

Tofu and Rice Veggie Bowl

Welcome to the world of grain bowls!

What’s a grain bowl? These are bowls filled full with fresh and delicious vegetables, some protein, and a cooked whole grain. The components can often be made ahead of time, so grain bowls make a great assemble-and-go meal.

Continue reading "Black Rice Bowls with Tofu and Veggies" »



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Would You Eat Jellyfish Chips?

Would you eat chips made out of jellyfish? These Danish researchers hope so, because they’ve revolutionized the process of turning the pesky beach creatures into tasty snacks.

While jellyfish chips aren’t technically a new culinary phenomenon, they were previously relegated to novel delicacy status. In order to create them, jellyfish needed to be marinated in salt for weeks. But the biochemists at the University of Southern Denmark in Odense have figured out a way to speed the process up so it only takes a couple of days to create the crunchy, brittle texture.

According to a press release, researcher Mathias P. Clausen says, “Tasting jellyfish myself, I wanted to understand the transformation from a soft gel to this crunchy thing you eat. Using ethanol, we have created jellyfish chips that have a crispy texture and could be of potential gastronomic interest.”

This technology has loads of implications, most notably it could help create a new commercially viable food source. In terms of seafood, jellyfish are a way more sustainable option, given the havoc climate change and over-fishing have reeked on the oceans. According to Clausen, “As this is pioneering work, I think using tools available to us to tackle the science of good eating can open peoples’ eyes for a completely new scientific field.” Who would have guessed that such a gimmicky snack could also have such a huge environmental significance?

But what do they actually taste like? Crunchy and salty like you’d expect. One taste tester claims, it was like eating the ocean.

While they probably won’t be hitting supermarket shelves anytime soon, it’s exciting to imagine the possibility of strolling down the snack aisle and seeing them next to Cheetos and pretzels. It’s a much better place for these tentacled creatures than up against your leg in the ocean.



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