Recipe Mutiny steals recipes from food blogs and recipe sites. Then we publish them. With credit (Naturally).
Tuesday, June 4, 2019
3 Secrets to Perfectly Juicy Italian Meatballs
Meatballs are a beautiful thing. Even when they’re not that great, I still enjoy them. (What can I say, good sauce and pasta can go a long way.) The first time I had truly ethereal meatballs, though—grazie to chef Rocco DiSpirito’s late mother, Nicolina—it upended everything I knew about meatballs. They should be tender! Light! Juicy! Life’s too short to endure dense, overly breadcrumbed efforts, and I’ve been amassing tips to making the best meatballs since.
No one understands this better than Anna Francese Gass, the author of “Heirloom Kitchen,” a cookbook celebrating the contributions of 40 immigrant women across nearly as many countries. The compilation book was born out of a smaller, personal project Anna had initiated to track down her own Calabrian mother Gina’s Italian recipes.
Heirloom Kitchen: Heritage Recipes and Family Stories from the Tables of Immigrant Women, $22.03 on Amazon
“I just kind of had an idea: I have all these friends who are first-generation [Americans]. I could provide a service,” she tells me during a recent Table Talk interview. “I could cook with their moms, and it’s mutually beneficial because I’m getting to learn all of these amazing recipes and develop them, and the family will walk away with a published recipe.”
What inevitably emerged was not just a trove of carefully preserved recipes, but a collection of stories that surrounded each woman’s individual immigration journeys. From Nelly’s “Church Festival” Spanakopita to Magda’s Pork Adobo and Sheila’s Panamanian Arroz con Pollo, the treasures within the book’s covers represent home cooking at its best.
As for the secrets to Gina’s juicy, never-dry meatballs? They all lie in a three-pronged technique:
- Add a little sauce: It might be unorthodox, but a little bit of sauce enhances both the meat mix’s flavor and texture.
- Don’t pack too tightly: Have a light hand when you hand-roll the balls. If it looks wet and on the verge of falling apart, you’re doing it right.
- Poach, don’t fry: Anna, her mom, and her grandmother all gently poach the meatballs in the sauce itself (no frying necessary!). This results in perfectly cooked meat and of course, more flavorful sauce.
Try her recipe out for yourself below, and be sure to watch our Table Talk interview with Anna (and read her informative Table Talk Q&A) to learn more about her inspirational cookbook.
Gina’s Brodo di Mamma e Polpette (Meatballs with Tomato Sauce)
Serves 6 to 8
“Italian grandmothers are judged on the deliciousness of their meatballs and sauce, and every Italian insists his or her mother makes the ultimate meatball. Living in New York City for a good portion of my adult life, I have tried many meatballs. However, although many have tried to prove me wrong, I can safely say mamma Gina’s are simply the best.”
“You must make the sauce for the meatballs first, because unlike some nonnas, my mother never fries or bakes her meatballs. Instead, they are cooked to perfection by simply poaching them in the sauce. Another secret? She uses her delicious sauce as an ingredient for the meatballs for juicy and delicious results Every. Single. Time!”
Prep Time: 45 minutes
Total Time: 2 hours and 25 minutes
For the sauce (Brodo di Mamma)
10 fresh basil leaves
½ cup (120 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly smashed
2 teaspoons crushed red pepper (optional)
8 cups (2 L/two 32-ounce cans) crushed tomatoes
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
For the meatballs (Polpette)
½ pound (227 g) ground pork
½ pound (227 g) ground veal
½ pound (227 g) ground chuck beef (85 percent lean)
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs, beaten
1 cup (100 g) freshly grated pecorino Romano cheese
1 cup (100 g) bread crumbs, preferably seasoned Italian (Gina uses Progresso)
½ cup (120 ml) whole milk
½ cup (120 ml) Brodo di Mamma, cooled
Make the sauce. Tear 5 of the basil leaves in half; reserve the rest. Combine the torn basil, olive oil, garlic, and crushed red pepper, if using, in a small pan and heat over very low heat, allowing the basil and garlic to “steep” in the olive oil for 10 to 15 minutes. The oil will become fragrant and rich with flavor—be careful to not let the garlic to burn or go beyond a medium-brown color. Remove from the heat, strain the aromatics, and set the oil aside.
Combine the crushed tomatoes and 2 cups (480 ml) of water in a large pot. Add the tomato paste, salt, and pepper. Pour in the infused oil and stir to combine. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then immediately reduce to a simmer. Remove ½ cup (120 ml) of the brodo for the meatballs, setting aside to cool.
Partially cover the pot and simmer for 1 hour.
Make the meatballs. In a large bowl, hand-mix all the meatball ingredients. (This prevents overmixing.) The mixture will be very soft, but resist the urge to add more bread crumbs; you’re making tender, melt-in-your-mouth meatballs. Once all of the ingredients are combined, wet your hands and pinch off a golf-ball sized piece of the mixture (about ¼ cup) and roll it into a ball. Place each meatball on a baking sheet and repeat with the remaining mixture, making approximately 16 to 18 meatballs.
Carefully drop the meatballs into the sauce. If the pot seems too full, shimmy the pot back and forth to make more room. (Do not stir with a spoon—you will break the meatballs!)
Simmer the meatballs in the sauce for 45 minutes or up to 2 hours. The longer it cooks, the better it tastes. Carefully remove the meatballs to a plate. Chop the remaining basil and sprinkle on top of the sauce. Serve with the pasta of your choice.
Note: Mamma Gina’s meatballs freeze exceptionally well. After step 4, freeze directly on the baking sheet, then transfer to freezer bags once fully frozen. They will keep up to a month. When ready to cook, make Mamma’s brodo and drop the frozen meatballs right into the sauce. Cook for 1 to 2 hours.
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What Is the Difference Between Fresh and Aged Cheese?
Cheese—in seemingly endless varieties and adored in all its forms—appears to be one of our most beloved foods. Instagram is loaded with photos of buttery triple-creams slathered on crusty bread, goat cheese rounds artfully dotting the top of salads, and delectable swiss oozing out of grilled Reubens. But we don’t just like to look at it. In fact, the average American ate 38.5 pounds of the stuff in 2016 according to the USDA. New cheese, old cheese, stinky, runny, pungent, and mild, we seem to love it all. So, does it matter how long it’s allowed to mature? Is there really a difference between fresh and aged cheese?
Of course! But there’s more to this legendary dairy product than whether it’s old enough to vote. If you dive deeper into the process of aging cheese, you’ll find its complexities can yield surprising and mouth-watering results.
The Funky Science of Cheese
The obvious difference between fresh versus aged curds is the level of moisture. The former tends to be wetter than the latter, so it needs to be consumed more quickly. Take mozzarella, ricotta, and chèvre; these three cheeses are often enjoyed when they’re young, soft, and mild-tasting. As a cheese matures, it tends to dry out, harden, and become more flavorful—think manchego, cheddar, and parmesan. But there’s more than one reason this happens.
You may not realize it, but every cheese is its own ecosystem, rife with living organisms that, to our benefit, make it taste a certain way. According to food scientist Pat Polowsky, there are three main reactions that contribute to the cheese-aging process. Glycolysis, the breakdown of the milk sugar lactose into lactic acid, is a form of fermentation. In many fresh cheeses, such as queso fresco and queso blanco, this barely even occurs (if at all). Lipolysis, the breakdown of fat, results in unique flavors, such as the tangy funk of goat cheese and the mushroom scent of brie.
But proteolysis, caused by naturally-occurring microbes or enzymes added by the cheesemaker, is perhaps the most interesting reaction of all, since cheese is primarily made of protein. It’s what gives a well-aged Vermont cheddar a slightly bitter taste and the aroma of sulfur, Polowsky explains. Another byproduct of proteolysis is granular crystals formed by amino acids, like those you might find in an older gouda. Wine and cheese educator and author Adam Centamore enthusiastically likens them to Pop Rocks, since biting into one is “like a white-hot sun of cheese flavor.”
The cheesemaking process contributes a great deal to how a cheese will turn out. From the type of milk used—goat, sheep, cow, or some combination of the three—to how the curds are cut, salted, molded, wrapped, and stored. And, believe it or not, size matters, since a small wheel loses its moisture and ages more quickly than a large one.
Tasting the Timeline
Aging “allows a cheese to develop nuance, complexity, intensity, and personality,” says Centamore. “It takes time for those things to happen.” But he stresses that there are wonderful cheeses worth trying at every stage of development. “An alpine cheese like Comté from France is fruity when it’s young,” he explains, “but as it ages, it becomes nuttier, savorier, with more serious notes, like chicken broth and roasted cauliflower.”
Julia Hallman, general manager of Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge, Mass., says that based on her experience as a cheesemonger, the American palate seems to tend toward extremes. She has the most fun helping her customers explore products throughout the aging cycle. For example, a French Valençay made from goat’s milk, dusted with ash and formed into a small pyramid, will taste clean and bright if eaten within a few weeks of being made. Taste it again a month or two later, and it will have developed a thin rind, heavier texture, and much more piquant flavor.
You might be wondering just how long cheese can mature and remain edible. Are we talking months? Years? Decades? Well, it depends on what kind you’re talking about. Cow cheeses tend to age longer because of the milk’s higher fat content, more so if they’re sealed in wax rather than clothbound. “A 40-month-old gouda is on the high end of the spectrum,” says Hallman. Meanwhile, a rare 40-year-old cheddar from Wisconsin made quite the stink a few years ago, with cheese lovers across the country scrambling to try a sample. It was reportedly still edible, but not very pretty to look at.
Of course, cheese doesn’t have to be historic to make an impact. But it helps to know what you like before making a purchase. “If you’re the kind of person who likes bright, tangy food, you might prefer younger cheeses, because they’re peppier,” Centamore suggests. If bigger, bolder flavors are more your style, he adds, you might choose to go with something older. Or try something out of your comfort zone, which could lead to a pleasant discovery. After all, even when it comes to something as beloved as cheese, age isn’t everything.
Cheese Recipes
Now that you know the difference between fresh and aged cheese, here are some of the ways you can prepare it.
Shutterstock
If you’re looking for something light and fresh, try making this New Orleans classic treat. The recipe is simple (just four ingredients!) and the resulting spread keeps for up to two weeks in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator. Slather it on a bagel or whip it up into cream cheese frosting to top your favorite cupcakes. Get our Creole Cream Cheese recipe.
Easy Baked Macaroni and Cheese
Chowhound
Why limit yourself to one cheese when you can use three? This easy version of a classic comfort food combines cheddar, gouda, and parmesan for an added depth of flavor, and gets topped with panko breadcrumbs to create an exceptional golden baked crust. Eager to dish it out? Get our Easy Baked Macaroni and Cheese recipe.
Chowhound
Get your deli fix with this grilled sandwich favorite, loaded with corned beef or pastrami, sauerkraut ,and your choice of gruyère (for a nuttier taste) or swiss (the original choice). Once it’s assembled, spend a few minutes cooking it on each side in a frying pan so the cheese gets nice and melty. Get our Reuben Sandwich recipe.
Chowhound
This classic dish creates a fun experience for a small gathering, whether you’re dunking in pieces of French bread, hard salami, veggies, or fruit. Use a combination of Emmentaler, Jarlsberg, Comté or gruyère, and don’t be surprised if your guests fight over the crust of cheese remaining in the pot once it’s finished. Get our Cheese Fondue recipe.
Chowhound
Instead of a traditional ganache made with cream, this truffle recipe combines chocolate with goat cheese for a tangy twist. Sweetened with maple syrup, dipped in chocolate, and sprinkled with coarse salt, this candy makes for sweet and savory finger food. Get our Chèvre Truffles recipe.
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What Is the Difference Between Catsup and Ketchup?
Have you ever had a Mr. Burns moment, pondering the difference between catsup and ketchup? Well, spoiler alert: they are one and the same. That’s right, there is no difference between ketchup and catsup, save for the spelling on the bottle!
Technically (per “The Oxford English Dictionary”), both words can apply to any sauce made from “the juice of mushrooms, walnuts, tomatoes, etc., and used as a condiment,” and they are usually qualified with the main ingredient stated on the label (i.e. Heinz Tomato Ketchup).
Ketchup
Although ketchup seems like an all-American ingredient perfect for squirting on burgers, hot dogs, and fries, the origins of the beloved condiment are actually Chinese. Ke-tsiap was a sauce based on fermented fish that was popular in 17th-century China (fish sauce came to them from Vietnam). British sailors got a taste for ke-tsiap in the 18th century and subsequently brought it back to England, where people began tinkering with it and trying to recreate it with more common Western ingredients.
Heinz Spicy Ketchup Lovers Variety Pack, $13.46 on Amazon
Add some spice to your life with these three kicked-up ketchups (jalapeno, Tabasco, and Sriracha).
The early recipes published in 18th-century Great Britain called for “kidney beans, mushrooms, anchovies, and walnuts,” writes Andrew F. Smith in “Pure Ketchup.” Then the condiment spread to the American Colonies, where tomatoes were added. The first known recipe for tomato ketchup was devised by the American scientist and horticulturist James Mease, and recorded in 1812; it contained brandy and spices along with tomato pulp, but no sugar or vinegar like the tomato ketchup we consume today at a rate of 70-plus pounds per year.
Catsup
The oldest Westernized spelling of the sauce name, according to the OED, was actually catchup, with the first citation appearing in 1690. Ketchup came next, in 1711, and finally catsup appeared in 1730. Ketchup giant Heinz originally went with catsup as the spelling for their product, but changed it to the now-standard “ketchup” in the late 1880s as a way to stand out from the competition, which was using the then-current “catsup” variation.
However you spell it, aside from being a delicious condiment in its own right, it’s also great for adding complex sweet, savory, and tangy flavors to other dishes, like the ones below:
Smoky Grilled Shrimp with Marie Rose Sauce
Chowhound
Marie Rose sauce is a British concoction of ketchup, mayo, brandy, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, and hot sauce—and it’s fantastic. Use it as a dip for seafood, fries, or roasted vegetables, smear it on sandwiches and burgers, lick it off a spoon…you get the idea. Get our Smoky Grilled Shrimp with Marie Rose Sauce recipe.
Turkey Chipotle Meatloaf
Chowhound
Transcend your boring old meatloaf sandwich smothered in plain ketchup and use this incredibly flavorful turkey meatloaf mixed with bacon, chipotle, and smoked paprika and glazed with a bold ketchup-chipotle sauce instead. Feel free to add extra bacon strips (and maybe cheddar cheese) to the sandwich too. Get our Turkey Chipotle Meatloaf recipe.
Easy BBQ Baby Back Pork Ribs
Chowhound
Ketchup is a classic base for barbecue sauce of all sorts, and this one has dark brown sugar, molasses, cider vinegar, garlic, paprika, chili powder, and Worcestershire sauce too—plus, the ribs are rubbed with even more spices before being roasted until tender. They move from the oven to the grill for the finishing touch of sauce, smoke, and char. Get our Easy BBQ Baby Back Pork Ribs recipe.
Cocktail Sauce
Chowhound
Jarred cocktail sauce is okay, but it’s really easy to throw together your own. All you need is ketchup, horseradish, lemon juice, Tabasco, and black pepper. And plenty of chilled shrimp to dip in it. Get our Cocktail Sauce recipe.
Easy Slow Cooker Baked Beans
Chowhound
You may not want ketchup on your hot dog (especially if you’re from Chicago), but you will want in in your slow cooker baked beans to go alongside. These are practically effortless, yet deeply delicious—and taste even better a day or two later. Get our Easy Slow Cooker Baked Beans recipe.
Smoky Rubbed Chicken Wings with Honey, Bourbon, and Molasses Sauce
Quentin Bacon
This recipe from Chris Santos is a fine way to make wings. A plethora of sweet, spicy, and smoky seasonings are rubbed into the meat, and an easy, sticky glaze is made from store-bought barbecue sauce doctored up with ketchup, molasses, bourbon, honey, and cider vinegar. Get Chris’s Smoky Rubbed Chicken Wings with Honey, Bourbon, and Molasses Sauce recipe.
Chicken Sloppy Joes
Chowhound
The childhood favorite gets updated with ground chicken in place of beef, plus a few sauteed vegetables for extra flavor and nutritional value, but there’s still plenty of sweet and tangy ketchup-based sauce to go around (and inevitably, onto your shirt). Get our Chicken Sloppy Joes recipe.
Ketchup Fried Rice
Chowhound
Ketchup sneaks into a lot of stir-fries, which makes sense given its origins. This Japanese favorite is super simple and quick to make, but has a surprising amount of flavor thanks to the complexity of ketchup. Or catsup, if you will. Get the Ketchup Fried Rice recipe.
All featured products are curated independently by our editors. When you buy something through our retail links, we may receive a commission. For more great hand-picked products, check out the Chowhound Shop.
This post was originally published on November 16, 2009.
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