Thursday, May 10, 2018

How to Get Your Clams Squeaky Clean

If you’re not already a fan of clams, there are several hurdles to overcome on the path to appreciation. They have a reputation for being rubbery and sometimes gritty, they can seem daunting to prepare, and much like crabs, they even suffer from negative word association (“clammy” is never used as a positive descriptor for anything). But then there’s also the phrase “happy as a clam”—and we’re happy to dispel those other misgivings: clams are not overly chewy when they’re properly cooked, are never gritty when properly cleaned, and they’re not difficult to work with once you know how. Joanne Chang and Karen Akunowicz of Myers + Chang in Boston gave us some pointers, and we collected a few more tips to set up you for success when cooking fresh clams.

how to clean clams

gontabunta/Shutterstock

How to Choose Clams

When buying live bivalves, regardless of what type of clams you’re after, look for ones that are tightly closed, without any obvious cracks or chips in their shells. (One caveat: soft shell clams will not be completely closed.) They should smell fresh and clean—reject any hint of fishiness or ammonia, sure signs of spoilage. If you have a significant distance to go between the market and home again, pack them next to something cold, and make sure they’re not tightly closed in a plastic bag or they may suffocate.

How to Store Clams

Ideally, don’t. They’re best cooked as soon as possible after purchasing, but you can hold them in the fridge for up to 2 days if need be. Place them in a bowl or other open container. Some sources recommend covering the bowl with a damp cloth or cheesecloth, while others say there’s no need, but one thing’s for sure: storing live clams in a closed container or submerged in water will kill them, which you don’t want to do (yet).

How to Clean Clams

First, check for any bad apples—er, clams. Tap the top shell of any open clams, and if any of them don’t close themselves back up, discard them, as they’re dead. As mentioned above, soft shell clams won’t close completely, but when you give the shell a tap, the neck of the clam should retract to some degree. If there’s no movement, toss it. Once you’ve gotten rid of any dead clams, which easily and rapidly breed bacteria, you’ll need to clean the live ones, both outside and in. To do this, all you need are three bowls (each big enough to hold all your clams), cold water, and a scrub brush.

1. Fill the first bowl with cold water—never warm or hot, since that will kill the clams—and submerge all the live bivalves. Some people add cornmeal to the water to help purge the clams, but all that should be necessary is salt (if even that). You can add enough salt to make the water mimic ocean salinity, then put the bowl back in the fridge and let the clams soak for 20 minutes.

2. Set up a second bowl full of cold, salted water. Lift the clams out of the first bowl and place them into the second soaking vessel. You don’t want to dump them from one bowl into another, even if you use a strainer, because you’ll just be pouring the gritty water back over the clams, negating step #1.

3. Let them soak in the second bowl of clean, cold, salty water in the fridge for another 20 minutes.

4. When the second soak is done, set up a third bowl full of cold, salted water, and again, lift the clams from their current bowl and transfer them to the new one. Soak them in the fridge for a final 20 minutes. That third time should be the charm. However, if you still see a lot of sand in the bottom of the bowl, you may want to repeat the process, once or even twice.

5. Finally, scrub each clam with a stiff-bristle brush to remove any grit or debris on the shells. Then they’re ready to go.

How to Shuck Clams

If you’re steaming them or having a clambake, you don’t need to remove the clams from their shells, but for things like clam chowder and pasta, you may want to shuck them first. Do this over a bowl so you catch all the briny-sweet juices (aka liquor), which you can add to your recipe right along with the clam meat. Chilled clams are easier to shuck, so make sure they’re still cold at this point. While it helps to have a proper shucking knife, you can use any small, sharp paring knife you have—with caution, of course. Use a kitchen towel to hold a cleaned clam in your non-dominant hand (you can even wear a thick, protective glove if you like), and hold the clam with the opening by your fingertips. Use your other hand to wield the knife; carefully slide the sharp edge between the lips of the shells and work the blade around the entire seal between the shells to break it. You should then be able to pry the top shell up. Scrape the tip of your knife along the inside of the top shell where the clam is attached to it, then do the same on the bottom to cut the lower adductor muscle. If you’re serving clams raw, tear off the top shell completely at this point; otherwise, just tip the meat and liquor into a bowl, picking out any bits of shell that may have chipped off during opening.

How to Cook Clams

If you find the prospect of shucking clams too tedious or too potentially dangerous, you can always steam them first, then pick out the meat and mix it into your finished dish before serving—just be careful of overcooking the clams or they may turn rubbery. And always throw away any clams that are still closed after being cooked, no matter what method you use, or they could make you sick.

And that’s all there is to it! So if you’ve been hesitant about cooking fresh clams, it’s about time to come out of your shell. Here are some recipes to help you get started:

New England Clam Chowder

New England clam chowder

Chowhound

The classic creamy comfort food from the sea, rich New England clam chowder can be great with canned bivalves, except when they’re chewier than pencil erasers. Try making a batch with fresh clams and you may never go back again. Get our New England Clam Chowder recipe.

New England Style Fried Clams

New England fried clams

Holly A. Heyer for Hunter Angler Gardener Cook

The other favorite New England way to cook clams is to dip them in evaporated milk, bread them in fish fry mix or corn flour, and fry them, for a great contrast of crunch outside and briny lusciousness within. Traditionally, whole belly clams are favored, but some find them too rich and too strong-tasting. You can use the same method for whatever clams you prefer (or can find) and they’ll taste delicious. Get the recipe.

Steamed Clams

steamed clams

Foodiecrush

Butter, garlic, lemon, and white wine are classic flavors to pair with lots of different seafood, and steamed clams are no exception. A touch of cream makes the sauce extra luxurious, perfect for soaking up with crusty grilled bread, and it all comes together in a snap. Get the recipe.

Linguine with Clams

linguine with smoked clams and cherry tomatoes

Chowhound

American versions of linguine with clams often includes a heavy sauce, sometimes white, sometimes red, but Italian versions often exercise a lighter hand. We err on the side of simplicity, but add our own twist by smoking littleneck clams and cherry tomatoes on the stovetop. If that’s not an option, just steam the clams and lightly saute the tomatoes in a little oil until they collapse and release their juices to form a light sauce. Get our Linguine with Clams recipe.

Coconut Green Curry Steamed Clams

steamed coconut green curry clams

Spoon Fork Bacon

We love the Chinese classic Stir-Fried Clams in Black Bean Sauce, but this is another fantastic option when you’re craving clams but also something a little different. Green curry paste, garlic, ginger, lime juice, and coconut milk give them a great Thai flavor. Get the recipe.

Chorizo Stuffed Baked Clams

chorizo stuffed baked clams

Wicked Spatula

Clams casino with bacon and breadcrumbs may be the most common form of baked clams, but this take uses spicy chorizo and almond meal for a delicious twist that’s also gluten-free. Get the recipe.

Manhattan Clam Chowder

Manhattan clam chowder

Tide & Thyme

It’s a classic food battle along the same lines as ketchup vs mustard or chocolate vs vanilla: creamy New England clam chowder or brothy red Manhattan clam chowder (which is really closer to cioppino)? Both are delicious in their own way, but only you can decide which wins your heart (and stomach). Get the recipe.

White Clam Sauce Pizza with Chile Oil

white clam sauce pizza with chile oil

How Sweet Eats

For those unfamiliar with New Haven-style pies, clams on pizza may sound odd, but it’s worth trying at least once. The white clam pie invented by Frank Pepe in the 1960s featured garlic, olive oil, oregano, and mozzarella, but this version is a bit richer, with heavy cream and two types of cheese, plus sauteed onion and white wine. And then there’s spicy chile oil on the side! Get the recipe.



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Third Wave Coffee Cafes Are All the Rage in Los Angeles

Thanks to Los Angeles’ creative nature, openness to new ideas, and thriving culinary scene, craft coffee—also called third wave coffee—has exploded in the city over the last decade, so much so that Southern California has emerged as one of the world’s foremost leaders in specialty brews. Today, the City of Angels counts a wide range of cafes from pioneers like Caffe Luxxe and LAMILL—both of which debuted in the mid-2000s—to an entire new genre of quality-minded eateries, like Triniti, which focuses as much on proper coffee beverages as it does on food.

“Part of the reason specialty coffee has a strong foothold in Los Angeles is that, as a city, it is very open to new things,” begins Michael Phillips, director of cafe experience at San Francisco-based premium coffee chainlet Blue Bottle, which expanded south in 2014. “Smaller sized drinks, longer prep time, [and] higher prices,” aren’t a fit for every market, but “Los Angeles is a city…always eager for new ideas,” he adds. And other premium coffee roasters from elsewhere around the country, like Chicago’s Intelligentsia and Portland’s Stumptown, too saw potential in Los Angeles as a coffee city early on, having set up shop there in 2007 and 2013, respectively.

“Los Angeles has open arms––it envelopes diverse cultures, ideas, foods, drinks, [and] fashion” states Alan Morales, co-founder of Civil Coffee, which began as a mobile espresso cart in 2012, and grew into a brick and mortar three years later. Morales credits Intelligentsia for introducing Los Angeles to premium brews “in a time [when] it was still pretty dry in terms of specialty coffee.” Today, Los Angeles is rife with excellent coffee shops. And for those headed to Los Angeles in the near future, here are 10 of the city’s top cafes in which to refuel.

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Blue Bottle

Blue Bottle coffee

Blue Bottle/Facebook

Locations: Downtown, Venice

What to order: Pour-over, New Orleans iced coffee

Blue Bottle expanded from the Bay Area to Los Angeles in 2014, taking over the former home to now-defunct Handsome Coffee in Downtown’s Arts District. Shortly thereafter, the specialty coffee roaster spawned a second, smaller outlet on Abbot Kinney in Venice, spreading the brand’s core values of excellent brews prepared with sustainably-grown beans sourced from around the world.

Stumptown

Stumptown coffee

Stumptown/Facebook

Location: Downtown

What to order: Cappuccino

For years, one of Los Angeles’ only places to drink Stumptown coffee was at market-driven  eatery Gjelina in Venice. But the lauded Portland-based roaster branched out with a brick and mortar in 2013, bringing its hip aesthetic and quality-minded brews to the City of Angels. Drop in for great coffee drinks brewed with sustainably-farmed beans, direct from farms in places like Colombia and Indonesia.

Go Get Em Tiger

Go Get Em Tiger coffee creme brulee latte

Go Get Em Tiger/Facebook

Locations: Larchmont

What to order: Business & Pleasure, iced almond-macadamia milk latte

Partners Kyle Glanville and Charles Babinski kicked off their Los Angeles coffee careers via a pop-up called G&B Coffee within beloved Silver Lake café Sqirl in 2012. But the duo quickly decamped, opening G&B at Grand Central Market in May of the following year, followed by Go Get Em Tiger on Larchmont just one month later. Expect to find beans by San Francisco’s 49th Parallel and Portland’s Heart––medium to light in roast, with an emphasis on sweetness and clarity of bean flavor.

LAMILL

Lamill Coffee

Lamill Coffee

Locations: Silver Lake, LAX, Honolulu

What to order: Single-origin pour-over; crème brûlée cappuccino

As one of Los Angeles’ very first specialty coffee outfits, owner Craig Min has been roasting beans locally since 1997, and opened LAMILL as a cafe in 2007. All brews––prepped via a range of styles from espresso to drip to pour-over–– are made with LAMILL’s own brand of medium-roast beans fired at the company’s Alhambra roastery. Don’t miss one of LAMILL’s playful signature drinks: an ingredient-driven crème brûlée cappuccino made from LAMILL’s Bliss espresso, plus house-made caramel sauce, organic Strauss milk, topped with brûléed turbinado sugar.

Triniti

Triniti LA coffee shop

Triniti

Location: Echo Park

What to order: Espresso, turmeric Thai, yam, and black sesame latte,

New as of last December, Triniti joins Los Angeles’ more recent wave of dining establishments totally dedicated to expert coffee. Chef Joseph Geiskopf (former chef de cuisine at Culver City’s Destroyer) joined forces with Cognoscenti Coffee alum David Wynn on an ambitious, contemporary café serving dishes like gnudi with roasted squash and nasturtium pesto beside a range of coffee beverages made with Coffee Manufactory (by Tartine) beans. In addition to focusing on espresso and showcasing a rotating crop of single origin beans and blends using two separate espresso grinders, one will also find unique house creations like a turmeric Thai, yam, and black sesame latte.

Civil Coffee

Civil Coffee

Civil Coffee/Facebook

Location: Highland Park

What to order: Espresso, Figueroa

Civil Coffee commenced as a roving espresso cart helmed by two brothers, Alan and Alex Morales, who trained at the now-defunct Handsome Coffee Roasters (currently home to Blue Bottle). In 2015, after helping to develop the brew program at Hollywood’s Tiago Coffee Bar + Kitchen, the pair opened doors to their own project, which has quickly become one of the city’s top places to re-caffeinate. Expect light to medium-roasted single-origin beans by two Portland roasters Coava and Heart, in addition to a rotating roster of guest roasters, which swaps out quarterly. Beyond excellent espresso, for a sweeter style go with the house-special Figueroa, made from espresso that’s modified with condensed milk, cinnamon, and a Maria cookie garnish.

Intelligentsia

Intellgentsia LA coffee shop

Intelligentsia

Locations: Silver Lake, Venice, Pasadena

What to order: Cappuccino

When Doug Zell brought his Chicago-based specialty coffee roaster Intelligentsia to Silver Lake in 2007, he introduced Los Angeles to a then-mostly unsung level of coffee geekery. And he only reinforced that theme when he expanded to Venice two years later in a space many compared, aesthetically, to a science lab. Since then Intelligentsia has consistently delivered some of the city’s most precise brews, and the brand has trained and inspired numerous baristas around the city who have since gone on to open their own coffee concepts.  Think of Intelligentsia as the city’s OG third wave coffee seller, and one that continues to pull perfect espressos to this day.

Caffe Luxxe

Cafe Luxxe coffee

Cafe Luxxe/Facebook

Locations: Santa Monica, Malibu, Pacific Palisades, Brentwood

What to order: Cappuccino, Latte

Beloved neighborhood staple Caffe Luxxe counts as one of Los Angeles’ longest craft coffee businesses, with its very first outlet on Montana in Santa Monica dating back to 2006. Really, before anyone else was doing the specialty coffee thing right. Since then, the chainlet has grown to include five outposts on the west side, plus a roasting facility in the South Bay, with its brews also often woven into ice cream flavors by small batch scoop shop Sweet Rose Creamery. The roast profile here is a bit darker than many others on this list and makes for excellent espresso-based beverages.

Bar Nine

Bar 9 coffee LA

Bar 9/Facebook

Location: Culver City

What to order: Espresso, hazelnut milk latte

Within a roomy 3,400-square-foot industrial-hip space in Culver City’s artsy Hayden Tract area, Bar Nine has been serving Aeropress and other coffee-based drinks via contemporary brewing system Modbar since 2014. Drop in for carefully-sourced beans and don’t forget to try the house-made hazelnut milk.

Cognoscenti Coffee

Cognoscenti coffee LA

Cognoscenti Coffee

Location: Culver City, Downtown

What to order: Pour-over

Beginning with a series of pop-ups, Cognoscenti Coffee finally landed a permanent home in Culver City’s Arts District in 2013. Owner Yeekai Lim is known for offering a wide range of beans, like San Francisco’s Rituel and Canada’s Phil & Sebastian, brewed by well-trained baristas. Beyond its original Culver City haunt, Cognoscenti Coffee also counts two locations downtown.

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France Bans Meat-Like Terms for Vegetarian Products. Could America Be Next?

Cherry Almond Granola with Vanilla Crumbles

Homemade Granola with Cherries and Almonds

Granola is a morning staple for my family. It graces our smoothie bowls and tops our yogurt cups. We even eat it by the bowlful, drenched in milk.

Over the years, I’ve sampled plenty of store-bought and homemade varieties. While I have many favorites, this Cherry Almond Granola with Vanilla Crumbles is at the top of my list.

Continue reading "Cherry Almond Granola with Vanilla Crumbles" »



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