Tuesday, February 27, 2018

Recapturing the Flavors of My Youth: Nostalgia Tastes Like Chicago Chinese Food

When I was younger, one of my favorite meals was Chinese food. Occasionally, it would even earn birthday meal status! I grew up on three unique restaurants: Hi Howe, Lim’s, and Pine Yard. Hi Howe was a Sauganash Cantonese favorite on Cicero that featured the Hi Howe Sizzling Platter, Lim’s was a Skokie mom-and-pop-takeout joint on Main Street that served chop suey and egg foo young, and Pine Yard was an Evanston restaurant on Church Street known for its Szechuan and Mandarin dishes, along with moo shu. As time went on, Hi Howe and Lim’s closed down. I never quite found the same Hi Howe sweet and sour chicken or Lim’s beef chow tastes again. I tried local favorites, Joy of the Wok on Dempster, and China Chef on Lincoln (both in Morton Grove), but neither of them could replace the tastes I had come to love. I still had Pine Yard, though. Their dishes were prepared differently, and their styles were distinct, but Pine Yard had plenty of other things going for it. I still missed Hi Howe and Lim’s, but I was at peace knowing that I could still get a few of my Chinese favorites in Evanston.

At some point during my adolescence, something scary happened. Pine Yard’s location on Church Street was going to be part of a major redevelopment initiative and they would need to vacate. This was devastating to my younger self. How would I get my fix for Chinese food? Ugh! Before long, however, my worry proved to be for naught. Pine Yard would move into a Davis Street (roughly one block south) storefront and serve again! Personal culinary disaster averted. As the years progressed, my taste for Pine Yard was bolstered by numerous and repeated visits. Then, something magical happened my senior year of college. I moved off campus into a real dump. A dump that was one (ONE!) block away from the restaurant. This meant I could have Chinese food whenever I wanted!

Now, you might be wondering how a college student could afford to eat out, like, ever. In normal circumstances, that might be a reasonable ponderance. In this situation, however, I was made in the shade, most notably because of two things. First, because I was living in a real dump with five roommates, my “room” costs were minimal, which meant my tuition refund check allowed for ample “board” expenditures. Second, Pine Yard was known for having one of the best lunch specials around. For about eight bucks, you could get a crispy egg roll, a heaping spoonful of vegetable fried rice, a plentiful portion of an entree, a bowl of wonton soup, and a fortune cookie. If you were anyone but me, you might have had enough for two meals. It was a lot of food, and a great deal.

crispy Chinese egg rolls with sweet and sour dipping sauce

Chowhound

Once I graduated, though, things were going to change, right? Wrong! I went to work for Northwestern as the coordinator of the Undergraduate Leadership Program. This meant my Pine Yard lunches continued! In fact, they continued so regularly that the staff inside knew me and my order, wishing me to enjoy “my favorite lunch” every Friday. Of course, all good things must come to an end. I left my job at Northwestern for grad school in Champaign, and upon completing the program and getting a job at a southside charter school, moved to Printer’s Row. My weekly lunches were over, but the connection in my brain of what I came to understand Chinese food to be was solid as a rock, cemented forever.

I managed to get north from time to time and indulge in the comfort food that was my favorite lunch, but that all changed in 2013. Disaster struck, and Pine Yard closed suddenly. An electrical fire torched the building. My sister and I mourned the loss of a childhood favorite that became an adulthood staple. Without a proper send-off, where the restaurant announces its closing, and you get to visit as much as you can before it closes its doors for good, we were left stunned—craving food we may never have again.

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As we read articles about the blaze, we maintained hope that Pine Yard would rise again. It had to! What would we do for Chinese food if it didn’t? Still, despite what we read, we knew it was a real possibility that the restaurant wouldn’t make it back from this. The hospitality business is tough. I don’t know how many spots I’ve seen temporarily shutter with a sign on the door that says “closed for renovation” that never opened again. As the months passed, it became clearer and clearer that Pine Yard would join that list. I’d check online every once in a while, still holding out hope. After a few years, still nothing. What once was a favorite meal was no more. I rarely ate Chinese food. I’d try a place hoping to find a replacement, but it never measured up. I’d emptily remark to my wife, “I could really go for some Chinese tonight,” knowing full well that I’d be out of luck. I needed to move on, but I couldn’t. Ever the persistent character, I remained watchful, yet unhopeful. One day in 2017, after three or four years of searching, I googled “Pine Yard,” expecting to find nothing new. Much to my surprise, however, a link from TripAdvisor popped up. It was titled, “The Owners of Pine Yard Restaurant in Evanston – Mei Lin House…” What. In the heck. Is this?!

I clicked on the link and read the review. Allegedly, the owners of Pine Yard opened up a carryout location in Wilmette. Is this true? I hope it’s true! It can’t be true. Can it?! Why would they call it Mei Lin House? Why isn’t it called Pine Yard? Ugh, why isn’t this more obvious and definitive? Filled with equal parts hope and skepticism, I remembered the original owners had sold Pine Yard about six months prior to the fire. Maybe they couldn’t name their new place Pine Yard. Maybe they sold those rights. Maybe this is what I’ve been looking for! After visiting their website, and checking out their menu, I texted my mom and my sister. Pine Yard might be alive, though with a different name. Still, I couldn’t bring myself to head up there and verify it. What if it wasn’t the same, despite the nearly identical menu? What if they changed things? What if what I loved burned down in that fire? Finally, I had enough. I needed to know. I headed to Wilmette, ordered my favorite lunch, and hoped. Lucky for me, I found what I was looking for. It was a long few years, but I finally got what I craved. I ate that meal with contentment, and an odd feeling of accomplishment. I suppose it’s because I tracked it down, persevering for years. Regardless, in those moments, I was happy. I found my Chinese food.

Chinese cashew chicken

Pixabay

Some of you might think I’m exaggerating a bit, perhaps being overly dramatic. I’m not, and here’s why: I had been to Pine Yard so many times, from such a young age, that it was Chinese food, and Chinese food was Pine Yard. They were identical, equivalent, and exclusively so. The brain is a funny thing, huh? But I doubt I’m alone in experiencing something like this. Think about something your mom (or dad!) made for you growing up. It might be a meatloaf, or a spaghetti sauce, or an oven-fried chicken breast (all classics from my childhood). Think about a favorite dish from a favorite restaurant—maybe a veal parmesan, or a prime rib. When you try to make one of those dishes yourself, or order it at another restaurant, what happens? Chances are, it falls flat, and you wish you had made something else, or ordered the other dish you were considering. Why? Because your brain associates meatloaf or veal parmesan, not with the general concept of the dish, but with a specific preparation, and when you don’t get that exact and precise preparation, you’re not only left with the craving, you’re disappointed.

I think this phenomenon is pretty common—especially with certain foods. A few years ago, we were at my aunt and uncle’s place eating a deep dish pizza from Pizzeria Due (they lived two blocks away, so carry-out worked great). I grew up on Due’s (for a treat) and Lou Malnati’s (more regularly), so this is what deep dish pizza was supposed to be. My uncle, who grew up out west, wasn’t quite as enthralled. Surprised, I rattled off a few other pizzas, asking if he preferred those. Still, ambivalent, I became nonplussed. He finally told me that the only place that takes care of his pizza cravings is the place he grew up on out West. Now, I’d bet head-to-head, it wouldn’t hold a candle to the pizza we have in Chicago. But for him, that didn’t matter. For him, what he grew up on was pizza, and pizza was what he grew up on. They were identical, equivalent, and exclusively so. When I heard it, I didn’t get it. Incredulous, I dismissed him and his preferences. But as I think about Pine Yard, I realize I was probably a bit unfair because I can relate. Don’t get me wrong. I still think, objectively, our pizza is probably better, but I now realize that subjective preference has little to do with objectivity. It’s why Barnaby’s in Niles for thin crust pizza, Due’s and Lou’s for deep dish, Herm’s Palace in Skokie for hot dogs and fries, Carson’s for baby back ribs, and Pine Yard for Chinese food will always be special to me. I grew up on them. And while my brain was building and strengthening neural connections between terms and tastes, preferences and templates for comparison were being constructed.

fortune cookies and red chopsticks

Pixabay

Does this mean I can never like another Chinese restaurant, rib joint, pizza place, or hot dog hut? No. It just means that, despite any effort on my part, the places I grew up on likely will be influences on my palate for the rest of my life. They’ll lead me to come back to have a craving satisfied from time to time. They’ll shape and determine new places I might try and like. They’ll comparatively inform my distaste for others. They’ll even motivate me to track down food I never thought I’d taste again. You probably have your places too. It’s only natural. They carry with them so much history, and so many memories. Sure, I can expand my horizons, build new cravings, and form new preferences. I hope I’ve done that. I think I have. I’m sure you have too. But these places I grew up on will always be with me, and that’s okay by me.



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Why Is Everyone So Fired Up Over Cheese Easter Eggs?

British supermarket Asda is selling an Easter egg made of cheese and everyone in the U.K. is very egg-cited! It’s being marketed as a Cheester Egg (Cheese + Easter = Cheester, get it?).

An Asda spokesperson had this to say about the product: “Following the incredible response to our Christmas cheese advent calendar, the Cheester Egg was the obvious next step to show our customers that we’re constantly listening and ensuring there’s something for everyone at Asda this Easter.” Clearly every holiday deserves a cheese of its own because, duh, everyone likes cheese. Except the lactose intolerant…and that’s because they’re mad that they can’t eat it.

But beyond cheese being inherently great, we’re not sure what the big deal is about its shape. This is just a molded blob of Blacksticks blue cheese. It can’t possibly compete with the heights of string cheese sticks and all their pull-able glory. But regardless, some people on Twitter sure were pumped:

Hear that, this magical cheese is either amazing or a disaster. Let’s see where this goes. The suspense is killing me.

That’s right, the Cheester egg isn’t even a complete egg! What kind of nonsense is this?! The other half of the package contains a small pack of mini oatcake crackers and a packet of sticky caramelized onion chutney. Those sides are all well and good, but not when they’re taking the place of what could be more cheese. How deceptive! This Easter, when it comes to cheese, we’ll take a giant platter. And when it comes to eggs, we’ll stick with Cadbury, thank you very much!



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Cat Cafe

It was my last night of freedom before I became a married woman, so I decided to spend it the best way I knew how. With Barry and Leo and Marco and Sergei. I dreamt of cuddling with these cuties and running my hands through their hairy chests. I thought about how their magnificent eyes would glow, and how their tails would arch up, as they yearned for affection. Yes, the aforementioned dudes are cats, not men. And for one day I would have them all.

New York City is littered with trendy bars and clubs, but rather than have my bachelorette party at one of those cliché spaces, I opted for a more alternative, feline-oriented approach. I wanted to party at a cat cafe, so that’s exactly what I did. And this is how I ended up spending the remaining hours of my singledom snuggling with Sergei, the gray tabby over macaroons and iced lattes.

For those unfamiliar with the concept, cat cafes are essentially open spaces where humans and felines (who are usually up for adoption) can mingle and enjoy each others’ company, while ordering food and drinks as well. They grew to prominence in Asia in the 1990s, as many small apartments didn’t permit pets, and the concept has since spread all over the world.

New York City has several options to choose from. I had my “cat-chelorette” party at Meow Parlour, a chic cafe in Soho, which at only three years young also happens to be the oldest cat cafe in city. Reservations can be made months in advance, especially for large groups. Thanks to the coordination and planning of my amazing bridesmaids, they had no problem accommodating a group of a dozen friends, and this crazy cat lady.

Founded by Christina Ha, who runs Macaron Parlor, Meow Parlour’s menu specializes in desserts and coffee. I downed a delicious mini apple pie, as well as a cat-shaped Linzer tart, all while actually petting a cat and donning a sparkly cat ear tiara!  Tell me again how a bride-to-be should be waiting in line for over an hour to get into some club that will be a punchline in a month so I can sip over-priced cocktails. I can’t hear you over the sound of all this purring!

Also, if you’re concerned about hygiene, and are grossed out by the thought of eating in a space where dozens of cats are roaming about, I swear this is all very sanitary. (The New York Health Department wouldn’t have it any other way!) The actual kitchen is disconnected from the eating space and food is brought in from a separate entrance. I can assure you there was no fur found in any of our food.

Meow Parlour

If you’re looking for Japanese eats with your cat experience, head to Koneko on the Lower East Side. (It’s name literally means “kitten” in Japanese!) Koneko has a full sake bar and housemade izakaya classics. The seafood and pork belly okonomiyaki frequently sell out. And of course there’s always mochi for dessert. They also host some great events like Celebrity Bingo Nights and Drag Queen Karaoke battles. We really hope the cats partake in the latter.

For Brooklynites, there’s the aptly named Brooklyn Cat Cafe in Brooklyn Heights. And if you can’t make it there in person, you can check out all the action via a 24/7 Kitten Cam live stream. Also there are some cafe rats named Remy and Emile, who help take care of the cats. Even though this sounds like something out of a Disney movie, we swear we’re not making this up!

And if dogs are more your speed, head to Boris and Horton—New York’s first Department of Health approved dog-friendly café. In addition to hosting frequent adoption events, customers are allowed to bring their pups inside and eat alongside them.

Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or just want a cup of coffee, all of these places provide enriching experiences for both the people and the animals that inhabit them. Even years after my cat-chelorette party, my friends and I still remember all the cats we met and all the cookies we ate along the way. We had the time of our lives and would do it again…eight times over.

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8 Recipes I Know My Kids Will Love

Meals My Kids Will Love

Ah, children. They can be our biggest fans and also our biggest challengers when it comes to cooking. Getting a meal on the table that they will eat sometimes feels like a Herculean task.

Continue reading "8 Recipes I Know My Kids Will Love" »



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Brew U: The Rise of Coffee Classes in Chicago

What do you think helps Chi-Town stay so smart? Sure, there’s plenty of higher learning to be done in Chicagoland, home to some of the best colleges in the area, but there’s nothing like coffee to help prop those eyes open on late nights studying. Coffee’s not just fuel for education, however. It can also be the education itself, and there are plenty of opportunities on the regular around here to get your learning on about almost every aspect of coffee, from brewing to in-depth tasting to pairing it with your favorite foods.

“I’ve had the privilege of living in a few different cities—I’m from Chicago, but I’ve lived in L.A., San Francisco, and New York, which all have really great coffee cultures. I think the thing that distinguishes Chicago is the way that community happens,” says Amy Moore, director of public education and private events for Ipsento Coffee. “I think that people here value community in a way that allows them to be really engaged in whatever they’re doing. They are more willing to open up and connect, and education totally kind of goes hand in hand with that—it’s a way for our regular customers to connect with Ipsento in a more meaningful way.”

In addition to coffee people and already existing regular customers, Moore says she has seen Chicagoans in general becoming more and more interested in branching out and exploring new grounds (so to speak) with coffee education. “We get a real range of students, from people who have really no relationship with coffee and don’t even make it at home, to coffee professionals. There’s a lot of momentum building with people who have been really loyal to Starbucks and other second-wave coffee routines, and they’re ready to dig in a bit more.”

Intelligentsia Coffee

At Ipsento, classes are available for a spectrum of folks who are looking to “dig in,” whether they want a basics class (Coffee 101), something that breaks down coffee flavor (regular public cuppings, or coffee tastings), or even brewing fundamentals (Barista Basics: Pulling Espresso & Steaming Milk). Moore says the company’s classes are inspired by a combination of the staff’s interests and passion, as well as the kinds of questions the Ipsento baristas are asked after lessons or when they’re handing over lattes. “For people who drink coffee, it is an accessible part of their life than beer or wine, which is more difficult to make at home. That kind of do-it-yourself culture added to interest in coffee education,” she says is what brings eager learners in caffeinated droves.

Moore and her team at Ipsento are in the process of writing and developing new classes to add to their curriculum (stay tuned for a course designed for home roasters), but in the meantime, here are just a few of the opportunities that Chicagoans can take caffeinated advantage of around town.

Coffee Brewing

Lest you think a coffee company teaching people how to brew better at home is giving the cow away for free, remember that there’s always something special about connecting the skills you learn with the people who taught you—and of course, you still need to buy beans! More and more coffee companies are offering hands-on brewing classes, both for home and professional use.

Intelligentsia Coffee, Chicago’s O.G. specialty roaster, hosts events and classes geared toward bringing consumers and coffee closer together, whether by meeting producers, shadowing baristas, or simply tasting delicious stuff for the heck of it. Anyone who wants to live like a professional coffee slinger for a day can sign up for a three-hour intensive espresso class at the company’s roasting headquarters, and the relatively accessible $200 fee will snag you a lifetime of lattes pulled and poured lusciously on your home equipment (or else a deeper appreciation of the person in the apron when you order the next one to-go).

Intelligentsia Coffee Roasting Works – 1850 West Fulton St., Chicago IL 60612; 

Want to get really buzzed? Eataly Chicago—one of the country’s emporiums of classic, traditional, famous, and inventive Italian food and flavors—also hosts espresso making classes in its on-site Piemontese coffee bar, Caffé Vergnano. The hour-long hands-on class exposes wannabe baristas to the skills required to make and improve shots of espresso, as well as a bit of a history lesson about the beverage and the opportunity to taste different types of coffee. At $10, this might be the best cheap date-night option around.

Eataly Chicago – 43 East Ohio St., Chicago IL 60611

Coffee Tastings

“Cupping” is the term coffee professionals use to describe the methodical, mostly very serious, and largely objective way that they approach coffee tasting for specific purposes like analyzing quality and making purchasing decisions. The cupping process itself, however, can also be a very approachable and adaptable way to allow coffee consumers to taste several different types of coffee without having to fuss with a lot of different brewers or individual servings. The advantages of the side-by-side comparison have made coffee cuppings more and more popular in a more public-facing capacity, and the process also inspires other types of tasting presentations around town and around the country.

Counter Culture Coffee

Every Friday morning at 10am, Counter Culture Coffee hosts a free and open-to-the-public Tasting at Ten event, which could feature anything from a cupping of several coffees to various brewing methods to even multiple espressos, always with an educational but fun leaning. While Counter Culture is a North Carolina–based roaster, its Chicago training center has been a staple of the growing coffee scene since it opened several years ago, and it’s a great place to learn and connect with other bean nerds in town.

Counter Culture Coffee Chicago – 177 N Ada St, Suite 106, Chicago IL 60607;

Tap into the cool, industrial vibe of coffee roasting with a tour and tasting at Metropolis Coffee Company. This scrappy and quality-obsessed local roaster is happy to open its roastery doors every first and third Friday of the month for small-group experiences of the whole roasting process, from history to loading to profiling to packaging—and, of course, tasting! Tours and tastings are free, but RSVP is required.

Metropolis Coffee Company – 3057 N. Rockwell St (rear), Chicago IL 60618

General Coffee Smarts

Ipsento Coffee

You know the crew at Ipsento Coffee is a class act because even the company’s name is brainy: It’s a word coined by the founders and combining the Latin for “self” (ipse) and “to discover” (sentio). If you’re looking for a class that’s more like the liberal arts curriculum of specialty coffee, look no further than Coffee 101, an evening session dedicated to shining light on everything from coffee’s seed-to-cup journey to the cultural implications of the beverage around the world to a little bit of hands-on brewing experience and, of course, tasting and palate development. That’s a lot to cram in to two hours, but of course the caffeine helps you move and think faster, so it works out. “The goal with all of our education is to make it accessible and break down the pretense that can come with specialty coffee,” says Public Education Director Amy Moore.” Sometimes it’s intimidating for someone to step into a specialty-coffee space, and my goal is to really break the information down into something accessible and exciting.” $80.

Ipsento Coffee – 2035 N Western St., Chicago IL 60647

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