How to Cook with Champagne and Sparkling Wine

Too much Champagne? Ahh yes, that age-old dilemma of the working class. It is, perhaps, a problem we long for rather than one we actually negotiate on a regular basis, but if ever there were a time when our flutes runneth over with an access of bubbly, it’s during those first few foggy days in January.

Maybe you stockpiled a bit too much for your fabulous New Year’s Eve party or were given a bounty of bottles as holiday gifts and the idea of downing one more glass has you eyeing that industrial strength Tylenol. Or maybe, just maybe, those two mysteriously opened yet unconsumed bottles have begun to lose their fizz, and thus destined for the drain (or so you thought).

Halt! Allow us a to make a few suggestions of a culinary nature.

Cooking with wine, in general, is a good and fast way to impart depth of flavor to sauces, stews, desserts and much more. That’s because wine, by nature of production, has already aged itself and its ingredients into a complex tapestry of sweetness, acidity, tannins, and other aromas and flavors attractive to our taste buds. It’s why we love wine in the first place. When we cook, and thus reduce/concentrate that flavor, while removing far less tasty alcohol, we’re left with a power shot of flavor created for us, deftly and lovingly, in a winery somewhere.

In terms of cooking, sparkling wine is likely not the first thing that comes to mind. For one, it bares association with celebration or brunch cocktails and, on average, runs at a higher price point per bottle. But that doesn’t mean it’s not a great choice for a range of exciting dishes and should not be overlooked!

A good rule of thumb when cooking with wine is to use it in recipes that, themselves, would pair well with the wine in question. It’s also wise to use something of a quality that you yourself would drink. That doesn’t have to mean a $300 bottle of Krug but stay away from the bargain bin, when possible.

Do be careful. Most sparkling wines have a specific and sometimes delicate flavor and are not a viable substitute for any recipe, even those calling specifically for white wine. To complicate matters just a bit, different sparkling wines themselves have marked differences in their own profiles, via production and blends, making some better than others for particular dishes.

In general, French Champagne is dry (or “Brut”), light and often Chardonnay-based with some Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier but can also be majority Pinot Noir, which makes for a bolder more structured profile. Because of an often dry and biscuity breakdown, Champagne does nicely with lighter cream sauces, soups and seafood, especially shellfish, but can stand up to chicken dishes or even as part of the base in a good béarnaise or béchamel.  

Italian Prosecco, another sparkling wine you might have laying around, is made from Glera or Prosecco grapes and, in general, produces a wine with more present sweetness, fruit, and floral aroma. Because of this, Prosecco or a sweeter Champagne, may be suited for a dessert or pork dish with complementing fruit elements.

See here for a more robust explanation of the difference between Champagne and Prosecco.

Others, like Spanish Cava and a slew produced in the American west, sport their own distinct flavor profiles. The trick is to learn them somewhat intimately and use accordingly. Try not to forget that cooking is a soft science, so trust your instincts and take a chance. You might just stumble upon greatness.

The below recipes all fancy a spot of sparkling wine. Cheers and enjoy!

Oysters with Prosecco Mignonette

Chowhound

Mignonette, a classic Oyster topper, is vinegar-based so a dash of sweet Prosecco adds a nice balance. Feel free to try an even sweeter version for a fun twist on a classic appetizer. Get our Oysters with Prosecco Mignonette recipe. 

15-minute Brie and Champagne Fondue

MNN

A sweet sparkling wine would be a total fon-don’t in this one, to be Brut-tally honest. Get the recipe.  

Shrimp and Champagne Bisque with Gruyere Cheese

The Cottage Journal

We mentioned Champagne pairing well with seafood, cream, and soups. This hits all three and would be an awfully nice first course for your next winter dinner party. Get the recipe. 

Classic Béarnaise Sauce

Chowhound

Because this is the sauce accompanying the dish, don’t be frightened by the above mentioned pairing “rule of thumb.” Béarnaise may be loosely affiliated with beef but can tap in to embolden a simple chicken breast or brunch-able egg dish. Get our Classic Béarnaise Sauce recipe.

Chicken au Champagne

Cooking with Curls

A brighter take on Chicken Marsala. A dry Champagne pairs well with mushrooms and lemon, both featured in the dish. Get the recipe. 

Seared Shrimp Tagliatelle With Prosecco Lemon Cream Sauce

Her Family

The sweetness of Prosecco balances out the acidity of the lemon cream sauce in this hearty Italian entree. Get the recipe. 

White Chocolate Strawberry and Prosecco Cake

Globescoffers

Prosecco and sweet strawberries are a classic pairing and this decadent cake brings them together in a showstopper of a meal ender. Get the recipe. 

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Cooking Resolutions We Intend to Keep This Year

Confession time: Raise your hand if you’re someone who voluminously consumes food-related media to the degree that you would describe yourself as an avid home cook, sometimes forgetting that all those pairs of hands in the how-to videos aren’t your own. Now, keep them raised if a time lapse video of the actual activity in your kitchen over the last year would reveal little more than the occasional scrambled egg or boiled water.

I see you. I see all of you. Because I am you.

We have the best of intentions, you and me, bookmarking recipes, imagining dreamy days spent wandering through farmers markets, and impulse-buying cookware that we are sure to put to enthusiastic and immediate use. Instead we remember we don’t have a dishwasher and order Seamless instead, try to forget the bodily harm sustained during our last Trader Joe’s run for frozen burritos, and stash the most recent purchase (still in box) on the last bit of shelf space ahead of the second-most-recent purchase, certain to be unused before the next purchase arrives.

Rather than begin 2018 with a generic set of resolutions destined to fail by the time the Super Bowl comes around, why not simply commit to spending more time in the kitchen becoming the person you already believe you are? In the spirit of being specific for the possibility of actually achieving resolution, why not try any or all of the following toward a more authentic, kitchen-centric existence this year:

Do Your Dishes

Like, seriously. I said these were cooking resolutions, and this is not some bait and switch. Without even having to see your kitchen, I can confidently attest that the number one obstacle standing between you and your glorious cooking future is not your single square foot of kitchen counter space, but the pile of dishes that awaits you before you can dive into your next project. So, do your dishes. Then get into the habit of doing them as soon as you finish your next recipe so that when moxie strikes you can begin with a ready kitchen and not run out of steam before you even get started. Now that we have that out of the way…

Respect Your Gadgets

Whether it’s something as humble as a waffle iron or as ambitious as a countertop deep fryer, you definitely are hoarding something (or many things) that you have so totally been meaning to use, but so totally haven’t. You don’t need to pull everything out of the pantry at once, but choose your weapon, give yourself a deadline, and go for it. Then try to give yourself another deadline to justify keeping it out rather than putting it back on the shelf, and before you know it the thing will have become worth its expense.

New Sensation

Wanting to try a new product or process is a great impetus for getting cooking, but you don’t need to aim huge in order to find inspiration. Like, “it is Jan. 2 and I am absolutely breaking down this side of beef and making Beef Wellington. For lunch.” Easy, killer. Why not start with the produce aisle and seek out kohlrabi, oyster mushrooms, or chervil? Or try the spice rack and see what you can get up to with herbes de Provence, ras el hanout, or garam masala? Big inspiration can come in small packages.

Get Classy

No matter where you live, I would bet your local community college, gourmet market, or main street bakery has a cooking class you can take. Whether you’re an enthusiastic beginner in need of basic knife skills, or a practiced baker looking to get into wedding cake decorating, investing in some professional coaching and spending an evening among other aficionados can invigorate your own ongoing motivation.

Browser-to-Table Dining

Challenge. Go to your social media forum of choice, or wherever you are likely to save online recipes and videos. Ask the person closest to you for a single digit number. Count down that many entries in your saved tab. Boom. This is what you’re having for dinner tonight. No, I don’t care if it’s for Jalapeno-Cheese Corn Dogs.Why else would you be saving all of these? Now let’s plan to play this little game, say, every month or so until you’ve worked through a few recipes.

Self-Preservation

If you live in a continental climate you may be noticing that the fruits and vegetables available right about now are better-traveled than yourself of late in order to have made it to your local market. So what’s an occasionally determined locavore to do? It’s not too early to start making a plan for the abundance of summer produce. So let’s circle a few dates in the calendar now, and meanwhile brush up on methods of freezing, canning, and pickling so come next winter we can marvel at our colorful and locally stocked pantry.

Myself, the Conqueror

We all have that one culinary thing that undoes us. For me it is pie crust, which I can’t seem to do without copious swearing. My dreams of pastry designs to rival the taut precision of M.C. Escher paintings emerge from the oven like droopy swatches from Salvador Dali’s discard pile. For you it might be unevenly cooked omelettes, or cakes that resemble famously leaning landmarks, or steaks that always come off the grill having rounded the corner on medium well. Whatever it is, I say we take it head on this year, regularly subjecting ourselves to the unavoidable angst with as much alternate nostril breathing as is necessary, until just maybe, we’ve practiced enough so that the thing is no longer our undoing.

Rise to the Occasion

You really should make bread from scratch this year. At least one loaf. Nothing crazy. Not the kind of operation that might cause you to start referring to your own micro-kitchen as “the hearth.” Just begin with a simple loaf, with care and patience taken at all steps, whose aroma makes you feel as though you have created the very concept of nourishment itself. Maybe serve it up sliced alongside a crock of chili or mushroom barley soup, and it will be the greatest thing since…well, since sliced bread.

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Southern Style Collard Greens

Please welcome Hank Shaw as he shares a Southern favorite, collard greens! ~Elise

I grew up with a healthy affection for sauteed greens: Bright, vibrant, spiked with garlic and red pepper and maybe a little citrus at the end. This was how greens were supposed to be served—alive, vigorous and most of all, emerald green. So you can imagine my shock when I first encountered Southern-style collard greens.

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Hoppin’ John

This was the year I fell in love with black eyed peas. (The food. Already loved the band.) They have a wonderful flavor, almost smoky, even without bacon or ham. Earlier this last summer we put them in a salad with feta and spinach. So so good.

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Bloody Mary

Welcome to the world’s most amped up tomato juice cocktail–the Bloody Mary.

It’s the ultimate weekend brunch drink. It’s also a famous hangover cure, though the benefits are due mostly to electrolyte replenishment coming from the liquid, salt, and natural sugar in the main ingredients—tomato juice, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce. The vodka? My guess is drinking more vodka isn’t going to help anyone’s hangover much. Though who knows?

The Bloody Mary is one of my favorite drinks of all time, though usually I limit the vodka to one ounce (I’m a lightweight, don’t judge!), or leave it out all together for a Virgin Mary.

My version of this drink includes the basics that you would expect—tomato juice, lemon juice, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, and pepper—and a few subtle twists.

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How to Host a New Year’s Hangover Brunch Party

Chances are, you’ll wake up on the morning (or, let’s be honest, afternoon) of Jan. 1 with either a splitting headache, unquenchable thirst, or a bout of mild—or not so mild—nausea. All solvable problems with the help of a New Year’s Day hangover party a.k.a. brunch.

Since New Year’s Eve tends to steal the late December thunder, I love the idea of throwing a morning-after food function that aims to celebrate the season, while mending any ailments suffered from over-imbibing the eve before. Which means that both food and drink will be vital. While some friends will want to load up on carbs, others will attempt to hydrate and replenish nutrients via juice, and/or to chase hair of the dog. So, it’s important to have a variety of bites and drinks on offer.

Last May I published a cocktail book called Day Drinking that celebrates, well, drinking during the day, via low-alcohol tipples––exactly the kind of libations you want to imbibe with early-to-mid day meals. It’s filled with recipes from top bartenders in the U.S. and some from overseas, along with a handful of classics, which I contributed. So many of those libations are prime for brunch, however what that book does not include is food pairings.

So, herein, my thoughts on eats and drinks, which will help you nail a killer New Year’s Day Hangover Party.

1. More is more.

Chowhound’s Egg, Cheese, and Chive Tartlets

When throwing a brunch party, and really any party in general, I like to offer variety. I’d rather serve many different small dishes, than larger portions of fewer plates. Also, I like to consider waste. What did you eat the evening before that you can repurpose into something the following day? Maybe turn that turkey stuffing into scrambled eggs, or throw that leftover Champagne (leftover Champagne?!) into a cocktail syrup.  And on the subject of eggs, try stirring a spoon of miso paste into your next batch of scrambies.

2. People are hungover, so they want carbs.

Chowhound’s Carrot Cake Pancakes

Pancakes, baked goods, and meat pastries are all your best friends. Also, the great thing about pastries and such is that most can be made in advance. And while it’s common to find sweet baked goods on brunch spreads, don’t forget about savory! A few brunch-appropriate carby things I am obsessing over right now include: Japanese soufflé pancakes (also this old Bon Appetit whipped egg white pancake recipe is killer!) and El Rey’s Sesame Banana Bread. I just returned home from a trip to Argentina where I fell in love with the country’s empanadas. So, these meat pies would be perfect for brunch, too.

3. People are hungover, so they don’t want carbs.

Chowhound’s Zesty Lime and Ginger Winter Fruit Salad

I can’t speak for you, but half the time I when I am hungover I crave carbs, and the other half of the time I feel like my body needs healthy things. Fruit, veggies, etc. So, definitely plan to offer fruit in some capacity, like this orange, pistachio, and orange blossom fruit salad. But, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to consider a veggie-rich grain bowl, too. As someone whose palate totally skews Asian, I also like to serve kimchi, and other pickles. Also, don’t forget to either buy or make (!) your own yogurt (fermenting yogurt at home is sooooooo easy, and very much impresses your friends!). You can prep some toppings like toasted coconut flakes, cardamom-honey, and chia seeds, or simply serve the yogurt with fruit.

4. Bubbles, bubbles, bubbles.

Chowhoun’s Mimosa

It’s time for bubbles! I love Champagne any place, any time (ahem Krug), and thanks to carbonation and acidity, sparkling wine is especially fit for morning feasts. If you’re serving a fancy wine, don’t ruin it with orange juice. But, if you’re keen to offer a mimosa or bellini, start with a less expensive sparkler, then add in juice.  Lately I’ve been interested in exploring bubbles from less-known parts of the world, like England’s Chapel Down, and Brazil’s Salton sparkling brut.

5. For those who don’t like bubbles…

Shutterstock

I am not really sure who those people are who don’t like bubbles, certainly no friends of mine. But in the name of variety and options, I also support serving still vino. Whites are the way to go, since these wines tend to be lighter, brighter, and more refreshing than reds, and right now I am particularly keen on Argentinian Torrontes by Piattelli and Bad Brothers—medium-bodied, floral whites perfect for a.m. intoxication. Also, don’t forget about rosé! The pink stuff isn’t just for summer imbibing. Try Napa-based Robert Sinskey’s Vin Gris Rosé.

6. Mixing and muddling.

Chowhound’s Brown Derby Cocktail

I have a ton of awesome brunch recipes in Day Drinking, so I’d urge you to snag a copy. A few of my favorites include a grapefruit wine, which I created that’s super simple, and calls for blending rosé with a grapefruit syrup (see recipe below). Another unique brunch tipple, and one that feels healthy thanks to the addition of a spicy ginger syrup, is ginger, spice, and everything nice—a mélange of fresh lemon juice, a honey-ginger syrup, and byrrh, an aromatized wine. And if you want to correct your coffee, consider the Carajillo, a digestif made from a mix of espresso and the saccharine vanilla-citrus-flavored Licor 43. However, I recently tried an improved version that calls for Ancho Reyes (original) in place of Licor 43, and it’s super delicious (recipe below).

7. Juice it Up.

Green juice, via Umami Girl

Those who choose to break from booze may partake in juice. If you have a juicer at home, it’s easy to press a batch of the green stuff. Or any other fruit combination you desire. If you don’t own a juicer, you can pick up some pre-pressed juices from Whole Foods or order via Pressed Juicery.

8. And if you don’t feel like cooking … Make it a Caviar party! Let’s say that cooking just isn’t your thing. Ask each of your guests to pick a dish and order off of meal-delivery service Caviar, and have all edibles delivered to your home. It’s a new-age potluck!

Grapefruit Wine

Kat Odell

Makes 1

5 ounces chilled rosé

1 ounce grapefruit rosemary syrup

1 rosemary sprig, for garnish

Mix both ingredients in a wine glass with ice. Garnish with a rosemary sprig.

Grapefruit Rosemary Syrup

¾ cup water

¼ cup honey

3 springs fresh rosemary

1 piece (3 inches by 1 inch) grapefruit peel

11/2 cups fresh grapefruit juice (from 2 grapefruits), strained to remove pulp and seeds

Combine the water, honey, rosemary, and grapefruit peel in a small saucepan over medium-high heat and stir to dissolve the sugar. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the syrup has reduced by two-thirds, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Remove and discard the rosemary. Pour the syrup into a glass jar, then add the grapefruit juice. Cover and shake to incorporate.

The Ancho Carajillo

Digital Hunter MX

Makes 1

2 ounces Ancho Reyes

2 ounces espresso

ground cinnamon and or/cinnamon sticks, to garnish

Add Ancho Reyes and espresso to a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake 15 seconds and strain into a rocks glass with ice. Sprinkle cinnamon atop and decorate with cinnamon sticks if desired.

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Moroccan Pot Roast

Pot roast is such a comforting, all-American dish; you almost don’t want to mess with it.

Almost.

When you add North African ingredients such as turmeric, ginger, cumin and coriander, along with pomegranate juice (for a little sweetness), you end up with something new, a bit exotic, and altogether fantastic!

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